الجمعة، 8 يوليو 2011

A Brief History of the Domestic Cat and Understanding Your Cat's Behavior


Understanding normal cat behavior is essential when establishing and cultivating a relationship with your feline that is mutually rewarding. Being in tune with the your cat's behaviors and how they communicate with you enables you in maintaining and continually improving your cat's quality of life.
Cats are just like small dogs, aren't they?
Definitely not! Cats are very social creatures, BUT their social behaviors and communication methods differ greatly from dogs.
Are cats always solitary creatures?
Not always! While it's true that cats are not 'pack' animals like dogs, the domestic cat is not as solitary an animal as was once believed. Domestic cats frequently DO live in social groups. Group living may be by choice (e.g. feral cat colonies) or may be secondary to circumstances beyond their control (e.g. multi-cat households).
The number of cats within feline colonies varies significantly; cats may live in large colonies and develop unique relationships with various colony members, or they may live in small, modest colonies. Cat groups typically form hierarchies, and strange new cats are not always welcome to the group: in fact, unfamiliar cats are frequently chased away, and it can be a long, difficult road for a cat to achieve acceptance into a group.
Thus, while it is true that cats can, and do, live happy solitary lives, they are ALWAYS solitary creatures. Many kitties are content to live alone, but now we also know that cats DO form social living groups too. What is the moral of the story? Cats have very flexible social requirements; cats are not only physically flexible, but companionably as well!
Cats have remained the way nature & evolution intended them to be - purrrfect!
Unlike dogs, today's domestic cat (non-purebred cat) is not far removed from its original ancestors with respect to its physique and behavior, and this is part of the cat's charm and appeal. Until recently cats have been lucky enough to have escaped humankind's desire to create "breeds" through inbreeding and selection for genetic mutations. While there now do exist cats that are bred for deformities, specific types of coats (or lack thereof), certain behavioral traits, and so on, the majority of today's cat population is made up of healthy, normal, and beautiful cats.
African Wild Cat descent
Modern cats are thought to have descended from African Wild Cats which are still found in deserts throughout Africa. Ancient Egyptians had significant influence on the domestication of the African Wild Cat because they revered felines and considered them to be sacred animals. In Europe, Christianity lowered cats' status but cats did succeed eventually in becoming popular domestic pets for the purpose of rodent control. Over time, the African Wild Cat hybridized with the jungle cat and European Wild Cat.
Behavioral development
Cats are often considered to form stronger attachments to their environment than dogs, and to then form secondary social bonds to the humans and animals within their environments (although many of us cat owners would beg to differ!). Many cats do not cope well with changes in their environments. Cats' ability to cope with new stimuli is strongly influenced by their genetic inheritance. There are two broad genetic categories of cats with respect to 1) capability to face novel situations and animate beings, and 2) the tendency to respond to these stimuli with aggressive behavior versus acceptance.
Neophilic cats have a significant tolerance for novel stimuli (both animate and inanimate) and neophobic cats are those that do not. But, despite the fact that both aggression and tolerance for novel situations have a genetic basis, owners can help decrease their cats' genetic predispositions to neophobia and aggression by properly socializing kittens by exposing them to new people, animals, and places during the appropriate developmental periods.
Just like people, cats have particularly sensitive periods when social behaviors and skills are developed. The most important time for cats to be socialized to humans is between the ages of 3 and 9 weeks. During this time frame, kittens are also learning how to play and interact with one another, and are developing important skills such as bite inhibition. Social play peaks at 3 months of age, and cats' personalities mature between 2 and 3 years of age. Cats' personality traits, like humans, are both genetic and a result of early social experiences and environmental factors. Cats that have not been regularly, and pleasantly, handled by humans before the age of 14 weeks, are more prone to being fearful, reserved, and even aggressive in human encounters, regardless of their genetic tendencies.
When a kitten is adopted, it is important to spend time gradually socializing them to men, women, children (under supervision and with gentle handling), other kittens and cats, and new inanimate objects. However, always be sure to provide escapes, or 'outs,' for the kitten, such as perches, cat beds, and secluded areas so that they may retreat to if feeling uncomfortable. This way the kitten does not feel trapped in the encounter, and will be far more relaxed and receptive to all interactions and to simply observing the situations. Provide treats, toys, and other forms of stimulation to make the experiences positive and fun.
Essential Cat Behavior Facts for Cat Owners:
- Physical pain and illness are most commonly recognized by owners as behavioral changes. If you recognize a sudden, or a slowly developing, behavioral change in your cat, it is best that you make an appointment with your veterinarian. - Never physically or verbally punish a cat for performing unwanted behaviors. Ignoring undesirable behavior is the most effective means of stopping it.
- Scratching is a natural cat behavior that involves grooming claws, stretching muscles, and leaving territorial marking pheromones behind. Simply direct this normal cat behavior to surfaces of your choosing so that your home does not incur damage from your cat's scratching habits.
- Petting aggression is normal in many adult cats, and avoiding injury or unpleasant interactions with a petting-aggressive cat is as simple as shortening interaction lengths, and learning to recognize the early warning signs of aggression onset.
- Predatory behavior in cats is normal, even when cats are not hungry. To prevent your cat from hunting birds and animals, an outdoor enclosure, or leash-walking should be used.
- Introductions to new cats need to happen very gradually and with proper guidance. Seek the advice of your veterinarian if you plan to introduce a new cat to your household.
- Contrary to popular belief, cats that urinate and/or defecate outside of the litter box do not do this to "get back at" their owners. There is commonly an underlying medical issue causing discomfort upon elimination, or, there may be an easy solution that involves ameliorating the litter box situation at home, and it was simply that the original situation was suboptimal.
- Cats are trainable with positive reinforcement and methods such as clicker training. Starting at a young age can help accelerate willingness to learn, and can be used to encourage helpful behaviors such as tolerating certain types of handling such as checking ears and teeth.
- Cats can become easily fixated on one type of food, and this may become problematic if dietary changes are required for health reasons later in life. It is important to introduce cats to a variety of shapes, sizes, tastes, and textures of food so that they do not become resistant to changes if they are needed later in life.
- Cats express stress with hiding, withdrawal, dilated pupils, increased respiratory rates, flattened ears, crouched postures, and hissing and growling. However, long term stress may be expressed by more subtle changes such as decreased grooming behavior, less playing, decreased social interaction, and poor appetite.
For more detailed information regarding particular behavioral issues and questions, please refer to our library of specific behavior topics, or call your veterinarian if you are concerned about a sudden serious behavioral change in your cat.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6389351

Caring For Your Senior Cat


Aging in cats can be a very individual process, just as it is in humans, but generally speaking, most cats are considered to be entering the senior years at 8 years of age, and are categorized as being geriatric once they are 10 years old.
Many aspects of caring for your cat change once they enter their geriatric years, including the expense of their veterinary care: this is something to be aware of in advance so that you can be sure to be able to provide the necessary medical care that they may require. Just like in humans, diseases of all kinds become more prevalent with age. Dental disease is a particularly commonly seen issue in older cats, and maintaining your older cat's dental health is both essential, and rather costly.
To begin with, your veterinarian will likely start recommending that annual, or even semi-annual, health screening tests be performed at your cat's regular physical exam times. These diagnostic tests will include blood pressure measurement, blood tests, urine tests, and sometimes survey x-rays as well.
The purpose of these tests is to assess overall organ function and health, and check for many common problems that are seen as cats age. For example, these blood tests generally include thyroid hormone levels, electrolyte levels, a total blood protein value, blood sugar, kidney values, liver enzyme levels, red blood cell and white blood cell counts, platelet counts, hemoglobin levels, etc. The urinalysis is used to help interpret the kidney blood values, and also to detect bladder or kidney infections, liver dysfunction, and diabetes. Blood pressure measurement is very important in older cats, because elevated blood pressure is seen quite frequently with diseases that are commonly seen in aging cats, and like humans, high blood pressure is considered to be a 'silent killer' (despite the fact that it occurs in cats for different reasons than in humans).
Survey x-rays are also invaluable, particularly in obese cats; as cats get older and older, their physical exams become of greater and greater importance, particularly for the detection of masses and diseased organs. However, because obesity in cats greatly limits what can be detected on physical exam, survey x-rays can help provide a better overview of organ shape and size than can be obtained on physical exam.
If your geriatric cat becomes ill with kidney insufficiency, hyperthyroidism, or other diseases, your veterinarian will treat your cat accordingly, and will advise you on what treatments can be done both in the clinic and at home to manage your cat's disease. More frequent examinations and tests may be recommended if your cat has been diagnosed with a health problem.
Even if your elderly cat has received a clean bill of health from the veterinarian, there are still methods with which you can provide your geriatric cat with greater daily comfort and improved quality of life. Some important techniques you can implement at home are discussed below.
Diet
Your geriatric cat should be fed an appropriate diet, and your veterinarian can give you samples for your cat to try, or make recommendations about suitable commercial diets available
Mature cat diets generally have more restricted protein levels in comparison with adult cat diets, and you will want to be cautious not to over-restrict your cat's protein intake since some geriatric diets will do so
Many geriatric cat diets are restricted in phosphorus and sodium levels in case of the presence of kidney insufficiency, hypertension, and/or heart disease
Geriatric diets often have increased fiber levels to help with slowing intestinal motility and encourage healthy daily bowel movements
Geriatric cats should be fed highly palatable canned food to optimize hydration status, particularly because renal insufficiency, which can result in dehydration and constipation, is so common in cats as they age
Access to the essentials
Geriatric cats often become less easily mobile due to decreased muscle tone and the onset of arthritis
It is important that geriatric cats have easy access to food and water dishes, as well as to their litter boxes
Weight loss and dehydration are common in older cats, so having food and water dishes on all floors of the home is important to encourage optimal intake at all times
Having comfortable access to litter boxes is necessary, which also means having access on all floors - geriatric cats that are forced to contend with staircases and longer distances to reach their litter boxes, may or may not end up doing their business in their boxes
Arthritis
Many geriatric do gradually 'slow down' as the years go by, and frequently we are too fast to assume that this is a regular part of the aging process
Well, it is a 'normal' part of the aging process in the sense that older cats are quite prone to developing arthritis, similarly to humans
However, arthritis is an ailment that all too frequently goes untreated in our feline family members, and it is well worth inquiring about pain management and nutrient supplementation for your cat with your cat's veterinarian - while we are unfortunately rather limited in the types of medications available and safe for long term usage in cats, there are some options that may be tried, and it can be amazing the transformation that can take place in your older kitty once it experiences relief from the chronic pain that arthritis imposes on them
Providing your arthritic cat with steps or boxes with which they can more easily access the bed and the couch, rather than needing to struggle to jump up or down onto them, can greatly decrease daily stress levels and also help avoid self-injury from an unsuccessful jump
Litter boxes themselves not only need to be placed in easily accessible locations, but they also need to be amenable to easy entry and exit for the geriatric cat - jumping in and out of litter boxes becomes more challenging as age progresses, and having roomy litter boxes with shallow entrances becomes more and more important
Monitoring Behavior
While your veterinarian will review your cat's behavior with you at its geriatric wellness exam, it is important for you to monitor your cat at home for any behavioral changes and bring your cat in for an appointment if you note any changes
The reason that behavior in older cats is so important, is because it is very commonly associated with underlying medical problems, despite the fact that the changes may seem 'personality'-related
Changes to watch for include differences in activity levels, alterations in sleeping habits, increased or decreased vocalization, increased or decreased appetite, increased thirst, increased socialization with people within the household, or conversely, withdrawal from the people in the house, increased irritability, aggression, and decreases in grooming behavior
Dental Care
Dental disease can easily lead to kidney and heart disease, systemic infections, and significant pain for your geriatric cat, and maintaining your cat's oral health will be one of the most important aspects of prolonging your cat's quantity and quality of life
Older cats with dental disease will not stop eating, contrary to popular belief, because to stop eating means to starve to death
Many owners expect that their cats will let them know, or will show symptoms, if they have dental discomfort, but this is simply not the case - animal instinct dictates survival above all else, and so cats that experience even severe daily dental pain will continue to eat, because doing so means that they will continue to live
While dental care for your cat is quite expensive, as it is for humans as well, it is one of the most important aspects of taking good care of your older cat, and ensuring that it is not suffering - it is an expense to consider before ever adopting a cat, and one that is well worth the investment once you are caring for your elderly cat
While this summary provides some good pointers on caring for your elderly cat, it is not a comprehensive list of all aspects of geriatric health care, and should you have any questions or concerns about the health of your geriatric kitty, it is best to contact your veterinarian to inquire about your concerns.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6386859

How to Give Your Cat Pills


So, you and your cat are back home after a visit to the vet. You have two bottles of medication in your hand and instructions to medicate your cat three times (eek!) per day. You aren't quite sure how your cat will feel about this plan. You anxiously glance at your kitty, now curled up comfortably on the couch. Kitty opens one eye which boldly stares back at you... the look in kitty's eye is unmistakable. It says, "just you try to medicate me, Human. By the time you've made your last futile attempt, YOU will be the one needing a visit with the doctor and some medication." But, don't panic! There are lots of tricks available to help you medicate your cat in an effective, relaxed, and danger-free manner!
Pill Pockets
Pill pockets work best for food motivated kitties. They come in two tasty flavors, salmon and chicken.
Pill pockets are hollow, soft treats into which you place the tablet or capsule and then 'mush' the opening of the pill pocket closed so that the medication does not fall out.
Disadvantages to pill pockets are that cats that are not food motivated are unlikely to voluntarily eat them.
Another disadvantage is that if your cat accidentally bites into the pill pocket and tastes an unpalatable medication inside, they will be unlikely to ever be fooled by pill pockets again! Also, some cats will learn to eat all around the pill, consuming just the pill pocket and leaving the medication behind.
Flavored Chews
For long term medication options, flavored chewable treats are a very pleasant option.
Medicated chews need to be compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and do tend to be more expensive than the regular drug.
Compounding flavored chews works best for medications that are not particularly strong tasting and unpleasant, otherwise cats may still detect the taste of the medication and reject the chew treat (ie. many antibiotics cannot be successfully made into flavored chews).
To figure out what flavor your cat prefers before ordering a large quantity of medicated chews, ask your veterinarian to try non-medicated samples: generally flavored chews come in varieties such as tuna, chicken, liver, shrimp, seafood medley, and beef.
Flavored Liquids
Flavored medications in liquid form also need to be specially compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and are also available in a variety of flavors palatable to cats.
Many people find liquids easier to administer to their cats than pills.
Liquids (non-flavored)
Many medications come in liquid form as well as pill form.
Liquids are not necessarily any more tasty in comparison to their pill counterpart (most are sweetened for human consumption and are banana or cherry flavored - since cats cannot taste sweetness, all that they taste is the flavor of the medication itself), but many owners find liquids easier to administer than pills.
Ask your veterinarian if there is a liquid form of the medication they have prescribed if you are having trouble giving your cat the pill form.
Keeping the liquid in the fridge (unless the medication specifically cannot be kept at such a cool temperature) may help decrease the distastefulness of the medication and make it less unpleasant for your cat to swallow.
Clear Gel Capsules
Many medications have very strong, unpalatable tastes - when these medications are prescribed in tablet form they can be particularly unpleasant, and often chalky, for cats to swallow.
Particularly when a medication is being administered long term, placing tablets into clear, flavorless gel capsules can be an excellent idea - your cat will likely resent the entire procedure much less if it does not involve an unpleasant taste that makes he or she salivate for ten minutes afterwards.
Clear gel capsules can typically be obtained at your veterinarian's office, and if they are not routinely kept in hospital, then they can likely order some in particular for you.
Some tablets may be too large to fit inside the gel capsules, so you may want to purchase a pill splitter at your pharmacy in order to cut up the tablets into halves or quarters that will fit more easily into the gel caps.
The drawback to using gel capsules is that they start to dissolve as soon as they touch moisture - ie. as soon as they are inside your cat's mouth!
So, the key here with gel capsules is to ensure that you have your pilling technique finessed and to always have extra water syringes nearby so that you can flush the capsule down with more water if needed (ie. if the capsules becomes 'stuck' to your cats tongue or roof of the mouth).
Pilling Techniques & Steps:
Step I: Organize Supplies
It is essential to everything you need prepared and ready to gobefore you approach your kitty to administer their medication. Have your pills ready on your right side (or if you are left-handed, have them on your left side). Have your syringes filled with water ready alongside the pills
It is IMPERATIVE that you administer water to your cat to help him or her swallow their medication. It is unfair and unsafe to assume that cats can swallow their medication without the help of water, and this is a topic that is all too often neglected when educating owners on how to medicate their cats. Studies have proven that cats that are forced to 'dry swallow' their medications do not successfully swallow their medications all the way down the length of their esophagus - in fact, after 5 minutes post dry swallow, only 36% of cats had the pills in their stomachs.
The esophagus is a very thin, delicate tissue, and it is not protected from caustic substances by a thick mucus layer as the thick, tough stomach walls are.
This means that when medications dissolve within the esophagus, as they do when cats are forced to dry swallow them, the esophagus is vulnerable to sustaining serious and painful injury from the dissolving medication.
Unfortunately, your cat cannot alert you to the fact that this is happening, and that they are experiencing painful 'heartburn,' but it is the reality of forcing them to swallow medications without water - most cats will simply withdraw after being pilled, and many owners assume that this is a result of the stress of the pilling event, and do not recognize it as an expression of pain.
Step II: Methods of Restraint - "Kitty Burrito" Technique
It is important to know that frequently 'less is more' with cats when it comes to restraint and physical manipulation. The more practice you get at administering medications to your cat, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect. As you become more proficient at this task, the less stressful the event will be for your cat, the less protestation they will make, and as a result it will become even easier to accomplish.
Occasionally owners are anxious about restraining their cats and ensuring that their kitty cannot escape while they are administering their medication(s). One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that does not increase his or her stress level, is by making a 'kitty burrito.' (Ultimately, it is best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it is acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)
To use the 'kitty burrito' technique, follow these steps:
Place a towel on the floor in front of you.
Place your cat on the towel so that they are lying down (upright), facing away from you.
Wrap the towel around your cat just like you would wrap a present or a burrito, leaving your cat's head uncovered, but both forelimbs snugly tucked inside the towel.
Place your feline 'burrito' on the floor between your knees facing away from you. Cats enjoy feeling snug and secure, and wrapping them in a towel will decrease the amount of struggling they will do.
Minimal Restraint Technique
If not using the 'burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is facing away from you, and then approach your cat from behind. This can be done while your cat is on a table, or on the floor, but generally speaking it is easiest when accomplished sitting on the floor with your cat.
Place one hand on your cat's chest so that they do not run away while you are getting organized. The reason you want your cat to be facing away from you is because this way they have nowhere to back into (because they will back into you), and with one hand lightly on their chest, they cannot run away either.
Step III: Opening Your Cat's Mouth
My Favorite Technique
Gently tilt your cat's head upward. Place your left hand (that was previously on your cat's chest) under their chin and apply slow and steady pressure in an upward motion.
When your cat is looking up at you, place your right index fingertip between your cat's lips and you will be able to feel a gap between their upper and lower jaws where there is a space between their teeth. The space is just behind their canine teeth and in front of their premolars. f you poke your finger in this small space, your cat will automatically open up their mo
When your cat opens their mouth for that split second, with your right hand (which has the pill ready), pop the pill as far back into the throat as possible.
Traditional Technique
With your left hand grasp your cat's upper jaw and gently pull their head (and upper jaw) upward.
Your thumb is placed on the right upper jaw while your index and middle finger hold your cat's left jaw.
Your fingers should be just behind your cat's canine teeth when grasping their upper jaw.
With your right hand pick up your cat's pill between your thumb and forefinger, and then placed your middle finger on the front aspect of your cat's lower jaw.
Your middle finger is used to pry your cat's jaws apart by placing it on your cat's lower incisors - cats' incisors are small and dull, so you will not be injured by this maneuver.
Apply gentle but steady pressure on your cat's lower jaw until their mouth is open.
With your cat's mouth open, quickly drop the pill as far back as you can to the base of the tongue.
Note: The traditional technique requires a bit more physical manipulation, which is why I prefer the previous technique ("My Favorite Technique").
"Traditional" and "Favorite" Techniques with Pill Popper
Many people are hesitant when it comes to the "dropping the pill down to the base of the tongue" part of pilling their cats, and understandably so! If you fear for the safety of your fingers, or your kitty is simply a pro at preventing you from placing the pill far enough inside their mouth, then the pill popper may quickly become your favorite new acquisition. The pill popper is a long, thin plastic tube with a rubber tip on one end and a stylet inside of it.
Place the pill inside the rubber tip.
Use either technique to open your cat's mouth, and then gently insert the pill popper into your cat's mouth and push the stylet. The stylet handle is on the opposite end of the pill popper from the rubber tip and, when pushed, it pops the pill out of the rubber tip and into your cat's mouth.
Notes on All Three Techniques
It takes practice to gain the confidence required to pop the pill all the way to the base of the tongue in your cat's mouth! It is normal to feel slightly skittish about sticking your fingers so far in there, but the more you practice, the less frightening it will seem, and you will quickly come to appreciate why the pills must be placed all the way back there; they will not be spat out! So don't worry if pilling your kitty doesn't come naturally at first... both you and your cat will grow accustomed to the routine with time and practice.
Step IV: Water to Swallow the Pill
Now that the pill is successfully (hopefully!) at the back of your cat's mouth, place your left hand back underneath their chin and apply gentle upward pressure. Your cat's jaw must remain parallel to the floor because if your cat gets their head down, they can spit out their pill more easily.
With the lower jaw held gently closed, and their head parallel to the floor or slightly upturned, pill expulsion is less likely to occur.
With your right hand, grasp the filled water syringe, and gently place the tip between your cat's lips. The syringe tip does not actually need to be forced into the oral cavity between your cat's teeth.
Simply depress the plunger gently with the tip of the syringe resting on the lower lip, and your cat will do the rest and swallow it, rather than allow the water to dribble all over their impeccable fur!
Notes on Water Administration
My personal preference is to use 3 ml syringes. Some people prefer the 1 ml syringes rather than the slightly bulkier 3 ml syringes.
The syringe tip which is placed between the lips should always be small and unobtrusive. If the tip is bulky, your cat may resist its presence.
Syringe tip shape, length, and width may vary somewhat depending on the brand and size of the syringe.
One of my favorite tricks is to use teat canulas on the ends of my water syringes! Teat canulas are meant for cow udders. Teat canulas are thin, flexible, elongated plastic tips that can be placed on the ends of the syringes... they are smaller, longer, and softer than the tips of the syringes, so they make great extension tips for giving water or liquid medications orally to cats!
I generally administer the entire syringe-full of water when giving pills, even if my kitty has already swallowed the pill down after the initial depression of the plunger.
It is far better to administer a little more water than necessary than not quite enough!
It's essential that you have enough water-filled syringes present in case you need extra!
Sometimes even the best of pill administrators flub up, so it's handy to be near a water bowl with which you can refill your syringes in case the first pill was expelled and a new pill needs to be given!
You can encourage your cat to swallow the pill by using your right hand to gently stroke your cat's throat - this stimulates the swallowing reflex.
Step V: After the Pilling Procedure has been Completed
After your cat has successfully swallowed the pill(s), give lots of praise, cuddles, and some of their favorite treats, so that they make a positive association with the event.
In time, it is possible that your cat may even come running on cue (or, at the very least, won't run away!) when they hear the medication cupboard being opened, or the pills rattling in the pill vial, because they know that there will be tasty treats coming their way post-medication!
Common Kitty Medicating Mistakes:
Pills
Do NOT mix your cat's medication into their food for several reasons:
Many medications taste unpleasant, and typically the flavor of the medication in your cat's food will simply turn them off of a food that they previously enjoyed.
Putting the pill in food or crushing it and mixing it into food is a very unreliable manner of medicating your cat, unless you are then immediately syringing it as a slurry into your cat's mouth.
If you have other pets in the house, they may end up ingesting the medication and it may not be safe for the other pets in your home.
Liquids
Do not EVER place your cat in dorsal recumbency in order to administer liquid medications - ie. do not cradle your cat like a baby in order to syringe liquid into their mouth! This position makes it difficult for cats to swallow properly, and makes it very easy for them to aspirate the administered liquid into their lungs, instead of swallowing it down their esophagus. I have seen cats suffer from aspiration pneumonia as a result of liquid medications being administered in this manner.
Administer liquid medications the same way you would administer the water post-pill placement. Push the plunger slowly and gently, allowing your cat ample time to swallow the liquid. Keep your left hand (or your right hand if you are left-handed) under their chin in order to keep it closed, and ensure that the jaw is parallel to the floor so that they do not spit or drool out the liquid.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6386508

How to Minimize Stress When Taking Your Cat to the Vet


Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!
Find a Feline Practitioner
Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this! 
  • Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!
To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America.
Find an ABVP Feline Practice Board-Certified Diplomate
Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!
ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.
To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. ( http://www.abvp.com/ )
Have a cat carrier
Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.
Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.
Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.
Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren't built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.
Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odours inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.
Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.
Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting - many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!
Have the RIGHT carrier
Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around... you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!
Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed. These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures. This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than 'dumping' them out of their carriers.
Keep your cat's carrier out & available for their use at all times
Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.
If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again!... Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.
Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.
Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.
What to put inside the carrier (aside from your cat!)
As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.
Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.
Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.
This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.
Pheromones!
There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.
When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.
The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.
Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while travelling!
To use Feliway:
Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit. Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier. Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it - leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!
Desensitize your cat to car travel
A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic... car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!
Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.
Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!
To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!
Ideally cats should be acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never. 
  • Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.
  • Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.
  • Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.
  • Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.
  • Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods - tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!
Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic - it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!
Your cat's demeanor inside the vet clinic
When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" - they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.
Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.
This form of 'discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarrassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" - veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.
Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familiarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.
'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.
The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.
Social time at the clinic!
An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.
Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit - you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time - the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.
Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.
Practice makes perfect
Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.
Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.
Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.
To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


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