الجمعة، 8 يوليو 2011

How to Minimize Stress When Taking Your Cat to the Vet


Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!
Find a Feline Practitioner
Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this! 
  • Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!
To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America.
Find an ABVP Feline Practice Board-Certified Diplomate
Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!
ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.
To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. ( http://www.abvp.com/ )
Have a cat carrier
Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.
Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.
Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.
Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren't built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.
Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odours inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.
Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.
Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting - many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!
Have the RIGHT carrier
Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around... you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!
Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed. These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures. This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than 'dumping' them out of their carriers.
Keep your cat's carrier out & available for their use at all times
Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.
If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again!... Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.
Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.
Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.
What to put inside the carrier (aside from your cat!)
As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.
Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.
Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.
This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.
Pheromones!
There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.
When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.
The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.
Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while travelling!
To use Feliway:
Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit. Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier. Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it - leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!
Desensitize your cat to car travel
A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic... car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!
Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.
Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!
To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!
Ideally cats should be acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never. 
  • Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.
  • Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.
  • Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.
  • Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.
  • Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods - tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!
Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic - it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!
Your cat's demeanor inside the vet clinic
When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" - they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.
Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.
This form of 'discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarrassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" - veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.
Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familiarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.
'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.
The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.
Social time at the clinic!
An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.
Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit - you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time - the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.
Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.
Practice makes perfect
Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.
Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.
Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.
To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6384310

What's Up With Cats and Heights?


Ever wonder why your cat is able to land on its feet almost every time he or she falls or jumps from seemingly all heights? Ever wonder why cats are able to survive falls from 10+ stories with barely any scratches and yet cats that fall from lesser heights such as 4 stories often sustain fatal, or near-fatal, injuries? Have you heard the term 'high-rise syndrome' applied to cats and wondered what it meant? Do you wonder what you can do to protect your cat from heights? Let's explore this fascinating and important topic!
How are cats able to consistently land on their paws when they fall?
Cats have an innate ability to right themselves in mid-air when they fall from an inverted position. This is usually referred to as the 'righting reflex' but is also known as the 'labyrinthine reflex' and occasionally is also categorized as a 'neck righting reflex.' The term righting reflex is actually a bit misleading because it infers that there is one reflex that is triggered when a cat falls, when in actuality, there is a sequence of reflexes that take place in order for the end result to be that the cat lands on its paws. The combination of reflexes that compose the sum effect of the righting reflex are: the labyrinthine righting reflexes, the optic righting reflexes, body righting reflexes, and cervical righting reflexes.
When cats fall they gather information from their vestibular system, which contains the labyrinth of the inner ear and is responsible for equilibrioception, or, in other words, is responsible for spatial orientation and balance. They also gather visual information to help them assess what direction is up and what direction is down, and, with a combination of other sensory input, and their flexible spines and rudimentary collarbones, cats are able to quickly orient and right themselves. Cats begin to develop this reflex at about 3-4 weeks, and it is typically functioning at 7 weeks of age.
How are cats able to survive falls from great heights?
There are multiple factors that enable cats to sustain fewer injuries from particular heights in comparison with humans. Cats are relatively small and light, have flexible spines, thick fur, and they reach a much slower terminal velocity relative to humans. The terminal velocity that a falling cat reaches is the constant speed at which they fall when they have reached their maximal acceleration and are no longer gaining velocity. Cats reach a terminal velocity of approximately 100 km//hr, whereas humans reach a terminal velocity of approximately 210 km/hr, and, fortunately for cats, they reach their terminal velocity at a height around 5 stories, whereas humans tend to reach terminal velocity at a height of around 32 stories.
Cats employ their excellently developed righting reflexes, and once they reach their terminal velocity their vestibular systems are less stimulated, and instead of maintaining rigid body posture, they relax. Once cats reach this more relaxed state, they spread their limbs horizontally to increase drag in the air, and to more evenly distribute the forces of their impact when they hit the ground.
Studies have shown that cats that fall from heights greater than 5 stories are better able to survive because they are able to employ the above survival techniques. Cats tend to sustain more serious injuries when they are not able to reach terminal velocity and relax. That said, cats can receive fatal injuries when they fall from any height, and every fall has the potential to be traumatic or even deadly.
What is "High-Rise Syndrome"?
High-rise syndrome is the term used when cats fall from heights greater than 2 stories, including the injuries sustained from the fall. Unfortunately, despite the fact that high-rise syndrome is 100% preventable, it is seen very commonly in the veterinary industry, particularly during summer months when owners open windows and leave balcony doors open.
High-rise syndrome frequently involves chest trauma such as bruised lungs, pneumothoraxes (air trapped in the chest cavity from lacerated airway tissues), and broken ribs. Frequently there are fractures to limbs, and sometimes spinal fractures. High-rise syndrome frequently causes traumatic myocarditis, which is injury sustained by the heart. Oro-facial trauma is common and can include a fractured jaw, fractured skull, fractured teeth, and fractured palate. One of the scariest components of high-rise syndrome is the damage that is much less visibly obvious - damage to organs of the abdominal cavity. Cats that fall from heights frequently suffer from bruised and bleeding organs such as liver, spleen, and kidneys, and can even have these organs rented, or avulsed, from their locations within the abdominal cavity.
What can you do to secure your cat's safety from heights?
Secure all windows! Cats are notorious for jumping/falling out of windows! They are easily stimulated by birds flying by, bugs, and other attractive stimuli. Even if you live in a house in which the highest window is two stories above ground, it is still essential to ensure the windows have very secure screens in place. As you now know, cats are more prone to suffering greater injuries when they fall from lesser heights than those that fall from greater heights (6 stories and above).
Fence in balconies all balconies! Balconies are another cause for "high-rise syndrome." Just because a balcony is high does not mean that your cat will not jump or fall off of it - loud noises or construction may startle them so that they reflexively back away off of the railing or between the railings, or a bird flying past can create a great enough stimulus that they leap for it without thinking twice about how high up the balcony is. Balconies should be fenced from the ground to the bottom of balcony above so that jumping off is an impossibility - there are many types of aesthetic fencing options available that will pass most building standards because they are visually unobtrusive. Also, consider using a harness and leash while allowing your cat on the balcony - supervision and restraint are the most certain methods of ensuring your cats safety.
Do not use childproof window guards since cats can fit through them.
What should you do if your cat sustains a fall?
If your cat has fallen from any height (even a single story!) it is imperative that you bring to your veterinarian immediately. Symptoms of internal damage may not become obvious to you at home immediately, and by the time they do, it may be too late to effectively help your cat. There is much that your veterinarian can detect from a physical exam that you will be unable to assess at home by simple observation of your cat, and early intervention and supportive care will be crucial to your cat's survival. Even if your cat is eating, drinking, and acting altogether 'normal,' it is still best to have your cat checked out by your vet! Cats have high survival rates when they receive immediate veterinary treatment post-fall.
To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6384060

A Dozen Key Points on How to Enrich Your Cat's Indoor Environment


How can you ensure that your cat lives a happy, enriched indoor life? By implementing the following steps! Physical health is not the only important aspect of taking good care of your cat; mental well-being is just as essential to providing your cat with a long, rich, fulfilling life. Indoor cats do not have the same opportunities as outdoor cats do to express their natural instinctive behaviors and experience the same sensory stimuli: hunting, lying hidden underneath the boughs of a tree, listening to the sounds of nature, scratching tree trunks, perching atop branches, marking and defending territory, mating, and so forth.
The main goal of environmental enrichment is to provide indoor cats with surrogate activities and situations that serve as enjoyable outlets for their natural behaviors. As cat owners we derive endless pleasure from the relationships we enjoy with out felines. In return it is our duty to ensure that our kitties also benefit from their domestic lifestyles, not just vice versa. And not just in regard to physical well-being (of which there are many benefits for cats). Despite the fact that their worlds are limited to single households, there are still a plethora of ways with which indoor cats may be kept active, engaged, and mentally stimulated.
Rotate Toys
Rotate the toys that are available to your cat every week, keeping most of them in an inaccessible cupboard.
Cats become quickly bored with toys once they are no longer novel, so by rotating toys so that they only see each individual toy once every four to five weeks, the toys become like new again and again!
Catnip Toys
Many cats love indulging in catnip toys. Many catnip toys lose their 'nip after a period of time, so the best ones are refillable catnip toys. You can also 'marinate' regular cat toys in jars or containers of catnip and then give them to your cat for his or her enjoyment! It is also possible to grow your own catnip plants, and it is not difficult to do. You simply harvest some of the catnip periodically, dry it out, crumble it, place it into a container, and stuff it into refillable catnip toys.
Grooming
Spend five to ten minutes gently grooming your cat every day. Cats often mutually groom one another, and it is an important bonding behavior.
Start by gently brushing under your cat's chin, then its cheeks, and then move to the rest of the body. This will be a relaxing experience for both you and your cat, and will also help decrease the amount of hair that will be shed around the home.
Place self groomers around the most feline frequented corners of your home - cats love these, and will rub up against them more times over the course of a day than you can count!
Training Your Cat
Cats can easily learn a variety of tricks such as 'sit,' 'shake paw,' 'come' and many others, and it provides them with excellent mental stimulation to learn these tricks.
Your cat will also benefit from the added social interaction time with you, along with the positive rewards and attention lavished on them for properly responding to commands.
Use only positive reinforcement to teach your cat the desired behaviors, never ever punish your cat with physical or verbal negative interactions.
Cat Trees
Have cat trees available in more than one room of your house. Cats enjoy having perches of varying height. Felines are naturally a semi-arboreal species, so providing 'cat trees' is truly providing them with what they would naturally enjoy doing outdoors. Cats revel in being able to sit and observe situations, and feel that they are at a safe height. Having multiple cat trees with high perches is particularly important in a multiple cat household - cats will get along much better with one another when they have the readily available option to withdraw from the company of their fellow housemates
Window Seats
Similar to how it is important to provide cats with observational perches within the home to observe household happenings, it is just as important to ensure that your cat is able to enjoy the outdoors from a safe place; in other words, cats should have easily accessible window ledges from which they can observe the outdoors on a daily basis.
If window ledges are too narrow for your cat to be able to comfortably sit on them, you can strategically place furniture (such as shelving) around your home so that they have a seat available to them.
You can also purchase cat window seats that you can easily install yourself - they are inexpensive and very effective!
Open your windows to provide your cat with fresh air and unimpeded sounds from the outdoors - just be certain that your window screens are secure and strong before doing so!
Even if you are not planning to enjoy downtime in a particular room, remember to raise the window shades anyhow, so that your kitty can enjoy the view.
Outdoor Enclosures & Walking Your Cat
Consider providing safe ways for your cat to enjoy the outdoors. There are many websites that allow you to build safe, esthetically pleasing outdoor cat enclosures, that work for both houses and apartments - the following links are just a few of many such sites: 
Harness and leash walking allows provides fresh air and exercise for the both of you
This is one of my personal favorites; it never fails to generate funny looks from people, and it never ceases to make me smile when my Freddy asks me for walks at the doorway ro when he comes running excitedly at the sound of his harness jingling!
Cats actually do quite well with leash walking when a body harness is used, rather than a collar and leash, particularly if harness and leash training is started in kittenhood
You can also purchase pet strollers that have a fine mesh and allow cats to be walked by you while enjoying the scenery and feeling safely enclosed in their stroller.
Playmates for Your Cat
Although it is easiest to ensure that cats will get along well together when they are raised together from an early age, it is still possible to introduce adult cats to one another, or to introduce a kitten to an adult cat.
Unfortunately, even when kittens are raised together, there is never any guarantee that they will sustain a good relationship throughout their lives - cat relationships are quite volatile and are subject to change from seemingly small events and influences.
That said, many cats do get along quite well together, and there are lots of ways you can help ensure a healthy relationship between housemates. Having a playmate helps provide social interaction and affection for your cats when you are at work or out of the home, is a constant play resource, and cats in multiple cat households often get more exercise as well.
Puzzle Feeders (facilitating food foraging and predatory behaviors)
Do NOT free feed your cat (have food constantly available in a bowl), because this makes food boring and facilitates obesity. Obesity will greatly decrease your cat's quality of life.
Leaving a small quantity of healthy treats (e.g. freeze-dried chicken) available in puzzle feeders while away from home during the day, and when in bed overnight - this allows for small feedings at your cat's leisure and will encourage natural foraging/hunting behaviors and exercise. Puzzle feeders are also mentally stimulating.
Another method of having your cat work for their food and which will simulate foraging, is to hide treats around the home that they can spend time searching out through the day.
Also, toss treats across a room or down a hallway so that it becomes a game and your cat can chase and pounce on them is another great way to simulate hunting behavior inside your home.
Scratching Posts
Have scratching posts available in the rooms most frequented by your cat.
Scratching is a normal cat behavior, and having scratching posts that your cat thoroughly enjoys greatly enhances the pleasure derived from his or her daily routine.
Incline: Some cats prefer a vertical scratching surface, others prefer horizontal, and yet others are partial to a gentle incline.
Substrate: Some cats prefer rope, others carpeting, and some prefer simple $10 cardboard cat scratchers (which, incidentally, are available as flat, horizontal surfaces, and also as ramps of varying inclines)!
Also,remember that not all carpets are made equal... soft, low quality carpet does not provide good durability, and most cats prefer tougher, higher quality carpeting that they can really dig their claws into.
Stability: A solid, wide base is paramount to having a sturdy cat scratching post.
Daily Routines and Predictability
Cats are very much creatures of habit, and having certain key routines in their lives helps to provide them with a sense of security.
Events that should have predictability to them include key feeding times, cleaning the litter box(es), grooming your cat, and playing time.
On the flip side of that, it is also important to provide small novelties in their routine as well, to prevent life from becoming boring - these can include a new type of treat, a new cardboard box in the living room to play with, a brand-new toy, or some unexpected cuddle time.
Avoid Disruptive Events (and sudden changes in your cat's environment)
Routinely creating small changes to their environment allows your cat to develop coping mechanisms to deal with change, so that when real change arrives they are not entirely without the skills to deal with it.
Make significant changes incrementally to avoid high levels of stress
For example, if you are moving to a new home, maintain all of your cat's routines as strictly as possible with regards to feeding times, grooming time, etc., and introduce your cat to its new environment slowly.
Start by allowing your cat to live in one room of the home, and provide lots of familiar items to help your cat acclimatize to this new territory. Next, expose your cat to an entire floor of the new home, and then eventually allow your cat to explore the entire house.
Summary
If you implement these methods of environmental enrichment for your cat, you should have a content, sociable feline that relishes every minute of every day (of which he or she is awake!).
For further reading on this topic, visit "The Indoor Cat Initiative" (now called The Indoor Pet Initiative since its expansion to include other species), a wonderful website created by the veterinary college of Ohio State University.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6386933

Raw Food For Cats Ensures Vibrant Health


Raw food for cats is beginning to catch on. People are beginning to understand that the long term health benefits to their cat on a raw food diet is enormous. It's not just the lack of quality ingredients in a typical commercial pet food that is so damaging to your cat's health. It's the chemical additives, from preservatives to artificial flavours, colours and appetite stimulants. And cooking destroys enzymes and alters protein.
Your cat evolved on a raw food diet. It is impossible to improve on nature. Man's often arrogant boasts to the contrary is based more on profit than on truth.
Natural good health is the obvious consequence of a healthy, natural, raw diet. The plethora of new cat diseases that seem to appear almost daily is I believe, in a large part, due to the poor diet. Your cat's immune system depends to a large extent, on the daily food. Other conditions will affect an immune system, but perhaps nothing has such a large impact. Dr Pottenger way back in the 1930s established that fact.
Having established that raw food is superior, and cost effective in terms of good health, the next question you face is how do you go about implementing it?
There are many aspects to consider in the change from commercial cat food to a raw food diet. You need to know which foods are suitable, which foods should be avoided, which foods can be harmful if given in excess. There are also considerations in convincing your cat to the change over as well as ensuring the diet is balanced.
If you are a busy person, you may already be quaking in your shoes, that all this is just much too hard. I know that's how I felt when I was first convinced this is where I should be going. It was tough. I didn't know where to start, or what to do. No one helped me. Being a vegetarian, I often gagged at what I had to do. The cats didn't help either, by refusing a lot. I nearly gave up.
But I persevered. And I'm so glad I did as the health of my cats is wonderful. They rarely get any health issues and what they do get often resolves itself. Hunting is almost non existent, as their nutritional needs are all being met. They are happy and content.
The feedback about the health of the cats I treat, starting with a diet change, is testament itself. Really serious and deep seated chronic illnesses can be turned around quickly.
Because I want everyone who loves their cat enough to ensure they feed a healthy diet, I have written an ebook and a membership course, showing you how to achieve this in baby steps. I'm a great believer in baby steps. It's easy to become overwhelmed by a new idea. But take a little step every day, and suddenly you are an expert, without even trying.
Don't be daunted by the enormity of the task ahead in converting from commercial to raw food for your cat. With help, it's easy.
Madeleine Innocent is a full time consultant homeopath based in Perth, Western Australia. She also coaches people, both on- and off-line, on how to use some of the common home prescribing remedies for animals and for people. For more information, visit: Diet and Homeopathy for Cats


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6403113

Indoor or Outdoor, Which Is Better For Your Cat


Cats are unique to dogs in that most times, letting your cat wandering the neighborhood at night is perfectly acceptable. But have you decided whether to let your cat be an indoor-only cat or to allow them some outdoor freedoms? Here are a few things you should consider.
Most cats will want to go outside no matter what you ultimately choose for them, but some, specifically cats that have previously been allowed outside, can make things even more complicated. It's almost as if they don't particularly care about your decision either way. Therefore, the best thing you can do for yourself and the anxiety of your cat is to stay consistent from birth with them, or at the very least from the point where you adopt them. It is easier to convince a cat to stay indoors at all times if you've been keeping them inside since they were a kitten.
The upsides of making a cat an indoor-only feline are pretty numerous. First, this will reduce a lot of dangers in your cat's life. Cars, coyotes, and cat-based diseases are all that common inside your house. Because of this, indoor-only cats have on average a much longer lifespan than a cat that's lived outside his whole life, or even part of it. Indoor cats are also cleaner and have almost no chance of dragging in an unwanted dead mouse or bird or rolling in dirt and tracking it inside on your carpet.
However, keeping your cat indoors at all times will increase the need to clean the litter box as they won't have any other option for taking care of their waste. Outdoor cats have a lot more "natural" places to do their business, but an indoor-only cat has just the one (hopefully not also including your sneakers). Outdoor cats are also generally thinner as they're far more active than indoor cats. This is mostly because of the limiting space a house can provide, as well as the increased level of activities in the outside world.
The tough choice then is really all up to longevity, though nothing guarantees a long life no matter what you do. I've seen indoor-only cats fall ill and pass away at young ages and outdoor-only cats stay around for years and years. My sad personal experience has an indoor/outdoor cat turned indoor-only cat passing away at only seven-years-old from getting out one night and drinking some anti-freeze someone had placed on their doorstep because they were unhappy with all the cats in the neighborhood. Basically, there's no telling what will happen.
Therefore, look at the options you have available to you and plan accordingly. Will your cat be happier inside or outside? Do you live near a busy street or in the country? Do you mind a dead snake on your doorstep every now and then? Just remember to choose wisely.
For more cat information and information about cat training, head over to SimplyCatBreeds.org today!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6410948

Flying With Your Cat - Airline Approved Cat Carriers and General Rules for Traveling With Your Pet


If you are traveling by plane and want or need to take your pet with you, there are a few rules and regulations that you, your cat and your carrier will have to meet, in order for your animal friend to be accepted in the flight.
The first thing you will need to do is to make arrangements for your pet in advance, by calling the reservations department of your airline; this is because only a certain number of animals are permitted in the cabin. This number may change depending on the airline, for example, American Airlines accepts up to seven animals in the cabin per flight, while AirEuropa accepts a maximum of five animals per passenger, but does not specify the total number of pets permitted. You should always call your airline to know the specific regulations for the specific company.
Another factor that you must take into account is that some airlines will not accept some breeds of cats into their flights; American Airlines does not accept Burmese, Persian, Himalayan or Exotic Shorthair cats. Some other characteristics of your feline friend are considered for its acceptance in the flight: the cat must be a certain age before it can travel, AirEuropa requires a minimum age of 10 weeks, while American Airlines requires your pet to be at least 8 weeks old; some airlines will also require a health certificate for your pet, in order for it to be accepted in the cabin, or as checked baggage.
Your cat carrier will also have to comply with certain regulations, some general for every airline and some specific. The first thing that you must have in mind is the comfort of your friend; this is why the carrier must be big enough for the cat to be able to stretch, lay down, sit and stand up, and be overall comfortable, it must also have enough space for two different water and food bowls that must be securely attached and that can be refilled easily, without any possibility of your cat escaping; the carrier must have a small bag of food for a 24 hour period, in case there are delays.
The carrier also must have enough ventilation for your pet to have a comfortable flight; you should consider buying a carrier with ventilation on two sides and the door to avoid problems. The kennel must be constructed of wood, metal, plastic, or a similar leak proof material. The weight permitted for the sum of the pet and the container must not exceed a certain quantity, which is approximately of 8 kilograms if the pet travels in the cabin, or 45 kilograms for a pet traveling as checked baggage. The dimensions of the carrier may vary between airlines, American Airlines permits 19" long x 13" wide x 9" high, and other airlines use similar proportions.
You can transport more than one cat in a singular carrier, being the range of pets allowed between 2 or 3, but no more than this in a single kennel. However, the animals must be comfortable and safe, so it does not matter if there is more than one animal in the carrier, as long as they travel in good conditions, and have enough food and water for all of them. Another thing you must know is that no airline allows the pets to leave the carrier during the flight.
Finally, in a closing note, always remember to call your airline to be sure that you are complying with all the rules and regulations, which may vary for each company. Remember that making the preparations for your feline friend's travel in advance will help you avoid last time inconveniences and make your journey more comfortable, knowing that your friend is also traveling in the best way possible.
Esteban Bernechea is a doctorate student of industrial risk analysis in Universidad Politécnica de Cataluña in Barcelona, Spain.
If you are looking for information about cat carriers, or airline approved cat carriers you can visit the following links.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6396146

I Just Adopted a Kitten: What Do I Need to Take Care of My Kitten?


Congratulations on the furry new addition to your family!
Here is a list of essential items that you need to get started with your kitten:
Kitten Food
Grain & soy free canned kitten food and grain free dry kitten food.
Feed your kitten 95% canned food, and complement it with a tiny amount of dry kitten food on a daily basis to give your kitten something to exercise their jaws on (depending on its age) since they will be teething over the next several months.
NOTE: You do not need to be concerned with rationing your kitten's calories for quite some time... your kitten can essentially eat as much food as they like because they will be developing muscle and bone tissue, and will need a lot of calories to do so! So, let your little feline enjoy as much canned food as they wish to consume! It is quite rare for a young kitten to become obese; your veterinarian will advise you about calorie rationing when your cat is approximately 1 year old.
Food & Water Dishes
Although many pet store kitten starter kits include plastic food and water dishes along with a litter box and scoop, avoid purchasing these! It is healthier for your kitty to eat and drink from glass, ceramic, or steel dishes, rather than from carcinogenic plastic dishes - just as it is for us as well! Additionally, most cats have a notable preference for glass, ceramic, or steel dishes over plastic ones, because they do not leech undesirable stale tastes into their water and food. This is because glass, ceramic, and steel dishes are far more easily cleaned and sterilized since, unlike plastic, they are not porous materials: more convenient for you and tastier for your kitty! Many cats who eat and drink from plastic food and water dishes suffer from feline chin acne as a result of chronic daily contact with them. This common skin reaction to plastic is yet another good reason that plastic dishes best avoided!
Your kitten should have easy access to food and water, so if you have a multiple level home, food and water should be available for your kitten on each level
Remember to clean and refresh your kitten's water supply on a daily basis! - Don't let water become old and stale, and definitely do not let water dishes go dry!
Litter Box
A great perk of adopting a kitten is that there is typically no 'house-training' period whatsoever! It is instinctual for cats to seek out a dirt-like substrate in which they can dig, do their 'business' in, and then bury the evidence! The only tasks required of you are: 
  1. showing your kitten where the litter box is located,
  2. ensuring the litter box set-up is appropriate
  3. maintaining its cleanliness!
A good litter box is open (not enclosed), shallow-sided, large & roomy, is easily accessible (ie. not hidden away in the basement), and not located in a high traffic or noisy location (eg. next to the washer and dryer)
Like the food and water dishes, litter boxes should be available on all floors in the home, and they should NOT be located by the food and water dishes (we don't really like to eat and drink in the washroom, and neither do our kitties! They are particularly hygiene-conscious creatures and those two types of activities do not mix any better for kitties than they do for us!)
Litter
Clumping litter is preferable because it facilitates cleaning the litter box on a daily basis without the build-up of ammonia from urine, and it also enables you to track the volume and frequency with which your kitten urinates • Unscented and non-dusty litter is best, and it should be kept several inches deep to provide a nice comfortable substrate for your kitten.
Scoop daily, top up the litter weekly, and empty & clean the box monthly Litter Trapping Mat • Small plastic, rubber, or fabric litter mats help catch litter bits that are tracked outside the box by your kitty coming and going, as well as litter that gets kicked out of the box as a result of your kitten's digging and burying actions. Litter mats are most useful when placed directly beside the entrance/exit of litter boxes where the highest volume of litter is tracked.
You can buy litter mats in pet stores or get crafty and make your own!
My favorite type of mat are those made of rubber; they're extremely effective at trapping litter, and are soft and comfortable on kitty's paws (which many other litter mats, such as ridged plastic mats are not)! Try Petmate Litter Catcher Mats, and also keep a handheld broom & dust pan handy for those stray litter particles.
Nail Clippers
Trimming your kitten's claws from a young age is a good idea because they become accustomed to having their paws handled, and in addition, kitten nails feel like little needles when they grow long! Ouch!
Small-sized pet nail clippers work well, but human nail clippers also work if you already have a pair. Give lots of praise and treats while trimming your kitten's nails, and be careful not to cut into the pink part of the claw (that's the equivalent of cutting into the pink part of your own nail!)!! Scratching post
Grooming claws and stretching their digital tendons and muscles are instinctive feline behaviors which start at a young age... so it is best to be prepared and have scratching posts in place when you bring your kitten home, rather than getting started on the wrong 'paw' (eg. your kitten using your favorite arm chair for scratching)!
Not all cats enjoy the same types of scratching posts, so if your kitten does not use the first one you try, do not be shocked... try rubbing catnip on it, try posts with different inclines (horizontal, oblique, vertical), different materials (sisal rope, carpet, cardboard), and make sure they are steady posts with wide, firm bases that will not topple over or move around while being used by your kitten.
Toys
If you plan on feeding your kitty a small amount of dry food each day, it is best to have your kitten 'hunt' it by using a kibble/treat dispensing ball - these are fun, mentally stimulating, and your kitty will be impossibly cute when playing with them.
Some examples are 'SlimCat MultiVet' balls, and 'Play N' Treat' balls - these allow your kitten to exercise both body and mind because they must manipulate the balls in order to get the kibble pieces to fall out... cats are natural predators and food that is available in a bowl is just plain boring!
Cats enjoy toy mice, catnip, cat-grass, laser pointers and many other forms of entertainment. Because cats become quickly bored of their toys though, it is best to have a rotating schedule of what toys are available to them - ie. keep toys hidden in a closet and pull out four different ones each week, so that they are 'new' again.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
http://www.catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6389497