الأحد، 10 يوليو 2011

Picking Out the Best Pet Door


Almost all cats and dogs love frolicking and playing outside. If you love pets and play with them a lot, you probably understand how important it is for them to have their daily dose of sunshine. That is why pet accessories have been so popular lately; especially play toys and Power pet doors that greatly enhance the experience of the outdoors for your pets.
If you want to make your very own Power pet door for your animals, then here are something considerations to remember:
How many pets do you have?
Some people keep only one pet or two, but there are other who love to have a wide collection of cats or dogs. If you own both cats and dogs, then take this into account because your four-legged friends will be the ones using the pet door.
Take note of the size of your pets.
You probably want all of your pets to be able to use the door. However, your chosen door may be too small for your taller or larger dogs. You will only make your dog or cat feel left out if they cannot use their Power pet door at home.
As a tip when making or buying a pet door to install, use as a measuring stick the tallest and biggest one of your pets. To get the height of the door, measure your pet's height from its chest to its feet, and for the width, measure across your pet's shoulders. Make sure to add some allowance so that your feline and canine friends walk out the door safely and comfortably. This would be the needed height and width for your door installation.
Look for a good location.
You might want a good spot for the Power pet door - a place that allows your pets to smoothly go out into the backyard of the front lawn. You can put your doors either on the back of your house or in front if you have a lawn and a surrounding fence.
Also, if your house's design is a big deal to you, you might want the door to coordinate with your existing home styling. Get a pet door that will complement your main door's existing color, pattern and overall appearance.
Don't make your pets jump through hoops and loops
Most importantly, install the door in such a way that your pets will find it easy to use. Remember that it's going to take some getting used to before your pets will be able to use the door all the time. Your life would be much easier if you install something that your pets will find simple to use.
Power pet doors are also great tools if you're potty training your pets. As you will not have to stand up every time your cat or your dog scratches on the doors, it would be a convenient thing to have.
What is your ideal power pet door? Visit Maynard's' web site at powerpetdoor.org for more free tips like getting the right power pet door with collars for your pet.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6390856

Eliminating Airborne Pet Hair - Top 5 Reasons An Air Purifier Is The Best Solution


Pet hair is probably one of the biggest issues for those of us who share our lives with a warm-blooded animal. Whether you love a bunny, dog, cat, ferret, or guinea pig, there is hair or with birds' feathers.
The question isn't whether it will go airborne, but how much, and how much you are willing to breather. Using an air purifier is one of the best ways to keep airborne pet hair and feathers to a minimum and here are the top 5 reasons why.
Non-Invasive - Pet safety is at the top of every pet owner's list. Using an air purifier whose only by-product is fresh, clean air takes a lot of the worry out of getting rid of hair. This keeps you from having to spend time, energy, and money to do something to your pet to reduce what is a natural process-shedding.
Requires Minimal Time - Opting for a cleaner that can run 24 hours a day means its working smarter rather than you having to work harder. Other ways of dealing with the problem such as vacuuming, dusting, mopping, bathing your pet, buying topical or oral remedies for you pet take your time and money.
Constantly filtering the air means there is less in the air, and less to fall onto surfaces, which immediately minimizes the impact the hair has on you and your pet.
Removes Normal Pollutants - The most effective purifier should include filters for both particulate and gaseous pollutants. So even though your main objective at this point is the pet-related particulates (and probably smells), it will also remove normal household particles and gases as well. These include but are not limited to household dust, dust mites, human hair, mold and mildew spores, bacteria, and viruses.
By the way, as unsightly as the hair might be, particularly when you are entertaining friends and family, there is another crucial reason to get rid of the hair - dander.
Your pet's hair almost always has dander (dead flakes of skin) attached to it. It is the protein in the dander that is a potent allergen for many. By reducing the amount of hair in the air, you are also reducing your exposure to this potent allergen.
You Can Take It With You - A portable unit offers lots of advantages for the pet owner. Not only can it be moved closer to a problem within your space, it can very easily go with you should you move. It's very comforting to know that regardless of where you and your pet call home, airborne hair never has to be a problem again.
A Permanent Solution - Shedding, whether it be hair, fur, or feathers, will be a continuing problem for as long as you have your pet. Filtering the air with a purifier to designed to do the job right is a continuing solution for as long as you need it.
An excellent HEPA air purifier to remove pet hair and dander from your air is offered by PurerAir.com-- the Pet Dander Air Purifier See it now at http://purerair.com/pet_dander_air_purifier.html


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6402151

Microchips - How Pets Are Given Microchips


Pet microchips have been around for a while now, but some people still do not trust them, choosing to use only a collar and tag, if that. Another form of identification is a tattoo, usually inside one ear, but sometimes inside the lip. While microchipping is becoming more common, it's far from being a perfect system.
Not all facilities even check for chips, but for those that do, the pets are many times more likely to be returned to their owners. When a collar tag is provided that signifies the presence of a chip, the odds improve, since some veterinarians and shelters may not routinely look for one.
For optimum assurance, both a microchip and collar with tags should be used. Unfortunately, the use of only one identification system is not very trustworthy. And so far, nothing is. Collars can come off, wear out, or in some cases, be removed by people who gather animals for sale to research labs. And chips may not be detected, either because no one checks for one, or because they have the wrong scanner, or even because the scanner's battery might be low.
As a rule, most microchips are "passive," that is, they do not contain a power source. They can only be read by a scanner and do not transmit any information. However, the scanner reads the chip by using a specific radio frequency to activate the chip to reveal the number. Because companies don't use the same frequencies, their scanners won't read someone else's chip.
Inserting the chip is not supposed to be a big deal, but check with your veterinarian to see how many pets have been chipped at that office, and what company's chip is being used. Two of the best known companies in the U.S are AVID (American Veterinary Identification Devices) and Home Again. Another company, Banfield, is used in Europe and uses still another frequency.
Since they each have their own databases, it can lead to confusion, but you can help by at least making sure your pet's chip is registered. Without your information, the chip shows only a number that cannot be traced. To help reduce the confusion, some groups are working to create a database that includes all of the companies.
It can be useful to ask other pet owners about their experiences with microchipping their pets...whether it helped with a lost pet, or even if there were any side effects. There is concern that the chips can cause cancer at the injection site.
So far, the only real use for chips is to match a number with a registered owner. In the future, when systems are more reliable, chips may be useful for medical data (temperature, blood sugar, etc.) and to register animals that have a history of dangerous behavior.
Another technology that may be more useful and is available but not developed for this purpose, is the implementation of GPS devices attached to pets' collars. Tracking your own pet could be a more effective strategy, but again, even that depends on the collar staying intact and hoping no one steals the device.
Using two or more forms of identification is most helpful for reuniting lost or stolen pets with their owners, but if they are retrieved after being injured, it can help to alleviate the unexpected expense of treatment if you also have pet insurance. It could be devastating to locate a lost pet, only to be forced to let them die from injuries that are treatable, but not affordable.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6403259

الجمعة، 8 يوليو 2011

Cat Dander Air Purifier - 5 Features To Avoid


If you're allergic to your cat, you know that it is the protein in the dander that can cause such horrible symptoms. If you're tired of sneezing, coughing, watering eyes, congestion, and feeling as if you can't breathe whenever you cat comes near, you need an air purifier for the dander. Here are 5 features to avoid when selecting one.
One Without A HEPA - This type of filter is a star when it comes to removing microscopic airborne particles. Spelled out it stands for high-efficiency particle arresting filter and is the same technology used by hospitals to ensure the air is clean.
It is able to remove 99.97% of particles that are.3 microns or smaller. And it does it with 97% efficiency. That means out of every 10,000 particles, it will remove 99,997 of them. That's what you want working for you against cat dander.
A Unit With Zero Pre-Filters - These filters that come before the other filters are an excellent indication that your filter will last a long time. They trap big and medium size particles so that they don't needlessly clog the filter that is designed to trap more minute particles.
Having these filters sort through the pollutants and leave the smallest pollutants for the filter with the smallest holes saves you money on replacement filters and bunches of time you would have spent replacing filters. Large and medium particle pre-filters should be standard on your cleaner.
No Odor Control - Living with any animal means living with some odor. For those of us who love cats, their particular scent can be comforting. Family and friends who visit may find it less appealing.
A purifier that uses carbon cloth for odor control is the best of both worlds. Originally designed by the British Military to be used against chemical warfare, it is excellent at removing gases, odors, and chemicals. And because it is a cloth, it also eliminates particles.
Limited Operation - Dander production is continuous. It is the skin's way of discarding old and damaged skin for newer healthier skin that is more able to ward off disease and infection.
A unit with a motor that can only run for part of the day should be left on the shelf in the store. Dander needs to be dealt with 24 hours a day to keep levels low which in turn means a cleaner that can operate 24 hours a day. A split capacitor motor will allow 24 hour operation that is safe, effective, and efficient.
One Speed Filtration - There are some days when things just happen faster than others. Whatever the reason, when there's more in your air, your cleaner should be able to speed out the rate at which it filters things out. Having a purifier that has a low, medium, and high speed adjustment will let your cleaner keep up with whatever is happening in your life and your cat's.
An excellent HEPA air purifier to remove cat dander from your air is offered by PurerAir.com-- the Cat Dander Air Purifier See it now at http://purerair.com/cat_dander_air_purifier.html


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6402965

Sphynx Cat - Advantages and Disadvantages of Owning a Sphynx


Now is your soul-searching time. It is really important to think through very carefully - and honestly - if you are in the best position to adopt a Sphynx (or indeed any pet). Besides shelter, nutritious food, and your time, your pet will require adequate medical care. This is one of the greatest responsibilities that applies to being a pet owner. If you feel that the time is not right to provide all four of these pet care factors, then you are not ready to adopt a Sphynx. A common question that people ask when considering adopting a Sphynx into their household is: "What are the advantages and disadvantages of owning a Sphynx?"
Advantages 
  • Sphynx cats do not shed because they are hairless. In fact, they have a fine layer of downy fur on the skin which is almost impossible to see.
  • Sphynx are incredibly loving and provide companionship more than most cats.
  • Sphynx blurs the traditional boundaries between dogs and cats.
  • They usually get along very well with other pets in the house even the dogs.
  • You become part of an exclusive club of Sphynx owners as they are so rare. This can open you up to wonderful friendships.
  • Hairless cats are very intelligent and can be trained.
  • They have proven and positive impact on humans' health.
  • Nude cats enjoy being dressed up because they don't like being cold!
  • They will keep you warm at night.
  • Sphynx is healthy breed with no known specific health or genetic problems.
Disadvantages
  • Sphynx breed is more demanding than other cats, in terms of the level of attention that they require. This can be alleviated somewhat by buying two Sphynx cats so that they have each other's company.
  • Sphynx eat and poo a lot because of their high metabolism.
  • The peculiarity of the Sphynx's almost hairless coat means that their skin becomes quite oily and greasy. They need to be bathed regularly, once or twice a week.
  • You will need to clean Sphynx ears and clip their nails routinely.
  • Sphynx is a very mischievous and playful cat. They will climb and jump on your furniture and appliances.
  • You may experience negative comments from people who don't like bold cats. You will need to accept that some people find the breed ugly or alien looking.
  • The Sphynx is a rare breed of cat, and as with anything rare and exclusive, this generally means a higher than normal purchase price.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6400297

I Just Adopted a Kitten: What Do I Need to Take Care of My Kitten?


Congratulations on the furry new addition to your family!
Here is a list of essential items that you need to get started with your kitten:
Kitten Food
Grain & soy free canned kitten food and grain free dry kitten food.
Feed your kitten 95% canned food, and complement it with a tiny amount of dry kitten food on a daily basis to give your kitten something to exercise their jaws on (depending on its age) since they will be teething over the next several months.
NOTE: You do not need to be concerned with rationing your kitten's calories for quite some time... your kitten can essentially eat as much food as they like because they will be developing muscle and bone tissue, and will need a lot of calories to do so! So, let your little feline enjoy as much canned food as they wish to consume! It is quite rare for a young kitten to become obese; your veterinarian will advise you about calorie rationing when your cat is approximately 1 year old.
Food & Water Dishes
Although many pet store kitten starter kits include plastic food and water dishes along with a litter box and scoop, avoid purchasing these! It is healthier for your kitty to eat and drink from glass, ceramic, or steel dishes, rather than from carcinogenic plastic dishes - just as it is for us as well! Additionally, most cats have a notable preference for glass, ceramic, or steel dishes over plastic ones, because they do not leech undesirable stale tastes into their water and food. This is because glass, ceramic, and steel dishes are far more easily cleaned and sterilized since, unlike plastic, they are not porous materials: more convenient for you and tastier for your kitty! Many cats who eat and drink from plastic food and water dishes suffer from feline chin acne as a result of chronic daily contact with them. This common skin reaction to plastic is yet another good reason that plastic dishes best avoided!
Your kitten should have easy access to food and water, so if you have a multiple level home, food and water should be available for your kitten on each level
Remember to clean and refresh your kitten's water supply on a daily basis! - Don't let water become old and stale, and definitely do not let water dishes go dry!
Litter Box
A great perk of adopting a kitten is that there is typically no 'house-training' period whatsoever! It is instinctual for cats to seek out a dirt-like substrate in which they can dig, do their 'business' in, and then bury the evidence! The only tasks required of you are: 
  1. showing your kitten where the litter box is located,
  2. ensuring the litter box set-up is appropriate
  3. maintaining its cleanliness!
A good litter box is open (not enclosed), shallow-sided, large & roomy, is easily accessible (ie. not hidden away in the basement), and not located in a high traffic or noisy location (eg. next to the washer and dryer)
Like the food and water dishes, litter boxes should be available on all floors in the home, and they should NOT be located by the food and water dishes (we don't really like to eat and drink in the washroom, and neither do our kitties! They are particularly hygiene-conscious creatures and those two types of activities do not mix any better for kitties than they do for us!)
Litter
Clumping litter is preferable because it facilitates cleaning the litter box on a daily basis without the build-up of ammonia from urine, and it also enables you to track the volume and frequency with which your kitten urinates • Unscented and non-dusty litter is best, and it should be kept several inches deep to provide a nice comfortable substrate for your kitten.
Scoop daily, top up the litter weekly, and empty & clean the box monthly Litter Trapping Mat • Small plastic, rubber, or fabric litter mats help catch litter bits that are tracked outside the box by your kitty coming and going, as well as litter that gets kicked out of the box as a result of your kitten's digging and burying actions. Litter mats are most useful when placed directly beside the entrance/exit of litter boxes where the highest volume of litter is tracked.
You can buy litter mats in pet stores or get crafty and make your own!
My favorite type of mat are those made of rubber; they're extremely effective at trapping litter, and are soft and comfortable on kitty's paws (which many other litter mats, such as ridged plastic mats are not)! Try Petmate Litter Catcher Mats, and also keep a handheld broom & dust pan handy for those stray litter particles.
Nail Clippers
Trimming your kitten's claws from a young age is a good idea because they become accustomed to having their paws handled, and in addition, kitten nails feel like little needles when they grow long! Ouch!
Small-sized pet nail clippers work well, but human nail clippers also work if you already have a pair. Give lots of praise and treats while trimming your kitten's nails, and be careful not to cut into the pink part of the claw (that's the equivalent of cutting into the pink part of your own nail!)!! Scratching post
Grooming claws and stretching their digital tendons and muscles are instinctive feline behaviors which start at a young age... so it is best to be prepared and have scratching posts in place when you bring your kitten home, rather than getting started on the wrong 'paw' (eg. your kitten using your favorite arm chair for scratching)!
Not all cats enjoy the same types of scratching posts, so if your kitten does not use the first one you try, do not be shocked... try rubbing catnip on it, try posts with different inclines (horizontal, oblique, vertical), different materials (sisal rope, carpet, cardboard), and make sure they are steady posts with wide, firm bases that will not topple over or move around while being used by your kitten.
Toys
If you plan on feeding your kitty a small amount of dry food each day, it is best to have your kitten 'hunt' it by using a kibble/treat dispensing ball - these are fun, mentally stimulating, and your kitty will be impossibly cute when playing with them.
Some examples are 'SlimCat MultiVet' balls, and 'Play N' Treat' balls - these allow your kitten to exercise both body and mind because they must manipulate the balls in order to get the kibble pieces to fall out... cats are natural predators and food that is available in a bowl is just plain boring!
Cats enjoy toy mice, catnip, cat-grass, laser pointers and many other forms of entertainment. Because cats become quickly bored of their toys though, it is best to have a rotating schedule of what toys are available to them - ie. keep toys hidden in a closet and pull out four different ones each week, so that they are 'new' again.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
http://www.catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6389497

A Brief History of the Domestic Cat and Understanding Your Cat's Behavior


Understanding normal cat behavior is essential when establishing and cultivating a relationship with your feline that is mutually rewarding. Being in tune with the your cat's behaviors and how they communicate with you enables you in maintaining and continually improving your cat's quality of life.
Cats are just like small dogs, aren't they?
Definitely not! Cats are very social creatures, BUT their social behaviors and communication methods differ greatly from dogs.
Are cats always solitary creatures?
Not always! While it's true that cats are not 'pack' animals like dogs, the domestic cat is not as solitary an animal as was once believed. Domestic cats frequently DO live in social groups. Group living may be by choice (e.g. feral cat colonies) or may be secondary to circumstances beyond their control (e.g. multi-cat households).
The number of cats within feline colonies varies significantly; cats may live in large colonies and develop unique relationships with various colony members, or they may live in small, modest colonies. Cat groups typically form hierarchies, and strange new cats are not always welcome to the group: in fact, unfamiliar cats are frequently chased away, and it can be a long, difficult road for a cat to achieve acceptance into a group.
Thus, while it is true that cats can, and do, live happy solitary lives, they are ALWAYS solitary creatures. Many kitties are content to live alone, but now we also know that cats DO form social living groups too. What is the moral of the story? Cats have very flexible social requirements; cats are not only physically flexible, but companionably as well!
Cats have remained the way nature & evolution intended them to be - purrrfect!
Unlike dogs, today's domestic cat (non-purebred cat) is not far removed from its original ancestors with respect to its physique and behavior, and this is part of the cat's charm and appeal. Until recently cats have been lucky enough to have escaped humankind's desire to create "breeds" through inbreeding and selection for genetic mutations. While there now do exist cats that are bred for deformities, specific types of coats (or lack thereof), certain behavioral traits, and so on, the majority of today's cat population is made up of healthy, normal, and beautiful cats.
African Wild Cat descent
Modern cats are thought to have descended from African Wild Cats which are still found in deserts throughout Africa. Ancient Egyptians had significant influence on the domestication of the African Wild Cat because they revered felines and considered them to be sacred animals. In Europe, Christianity lowered cats' status but cats did succeed eventually in becoming popular domestic pets for the purpose of rodent control. Over time, the African Wild Cat hybridized with the jungle cat and European Wild Cat.
Behavioral development
Cats are often considered to form stronger attachments to their environment than dogs, and to then form secondary social bonds to the humans and animals within their environments (although many of us cat owners would beg to differ!). Many cats do not cope well with changes in their environments. Cats' ability to cope with new stimuli is strongly influenced by their genetic inheritance. There are two broad genetic categories of cats with respect to 1) capability to face novel situations and animate beings, and 2) the tendency to respond to these stimuli with aggressive behavior versus acceptance.
Neophilic cats have a significant tolerance for novel stimuli (both animate and inanimate) and neophobic cats are those that do not. But, despite the fact that both aggression and tolerance for novel situations have a genetic basis, owners can help decrease their cats' genetic predispositions to neophobia and aggression by properly socializing kittens by exposing them to new people, animals, and places during the appropriate developmental periods.
Just like people, cats have particularly sensitive periods when social behaviors and skills are developed. The most important time for cats to be socialized to humans is between the ages of 3 and 9 weeks. During this time frame, kittens are also learning how to play and interact with one another, and are developing important skills such as bite inhibition. Social play peaks at 3 months of age, and cats' personalities mature between 2 and 3 years of age. Cats' personality traits, like humans, are both genetic and a result of early social experiences and environmental factors. Cats that have not been regularly, and pleasantly, handled by humans before the age of 14 weeks, are more prone to being fearful, reserved, and even aggressive in human encounters, regardless of their genetic tendencies.
When a kitten is adopted, it is important to spend time gradually socializing them to men, women, children (under supervision and with gentle handling), other kittens and cats, and new inanimate objects. However, always be sure to provide escapes, or 'outs,' for the kitten, such as perches, cat beds, and secluded areas so that they may retreat to if feeling uncomfortable. This way the kitten does not feel trapped in the encounter, and will be far more relaxed and receptive to all interactions and to simply observing the situations. Provide treats, toys, and other forms of stimulation to make the experiences positive and fun.
Essential Cat Behavior Facts for Cat Owners:
- Physical pain and illness are most commonly recognized by owners as behavioral changes. If you recognize a sudden, or a slowly developing, behavioral change in your cat, it is best that you make an appointment with your veterinarian. - Never physically or verbally punish a cat for performing unwanted behaviors. Ignoring undesirable behavior is the most effective means of stopping it.
- Scratching is a natural cat behavior that involves grooming claws, stretching muscles, and leaving territorial marking pheromones behind. Simply direct this normal cat behavior to surfaces of your choosing so that your home does not incur damage from your cat's scratching habits.
- Petting aggression is normal in many adult cats, and avoiding injury or unpleasant interactions with a petting-aggressive cat is as simple as shortening interaction lengths, and learning to recognize the early warning signs of aggression onset.
- Predatory behavior in cats is normal, even when cats are not hungry. To prevent your cat from hunting birds and animals, an outdoor enclosure, or leash-walking should be used.
- Introductions to new cats need to happen very gradually and with proper guidance. Seek the advice of your veterinarian if you plan to introduce a new cat to your household.
- Contrary to popular belief, cats that urinate and/or defecate outside of the litter box do not do this to "get back at" their owners. There is commonly an underlying medical issue causing discomfort upon elimination, or, there may be an easy solution that involves ameliorating the litter box situation at home, and it was simply that the original situation was suboptimal.
- Cats are trainable with positive reinforcement and methods such as clicker training. Starting at a young age can help accelerate willingness to learn, and can be used to encourage helpful behaviors such as tolerating certain types of handling such as checking ears and teeth.
- Cats can become easily fixated on one type of food, and this may become problematic if dietary changes are required for health reasons later in life. It is important to introduce cats to a variety of shapes, sizes, tastes, and textures of food so that they do not become resistant to changes if they are needed later in life.
- Cats express stress with hiding, withdrawal, dilated pupils, increased respiratory rates, flattened ears, crouched postures, and hissing and growling. However, long term stress may be expressed by more subtle changes such as decreased grooming behavior, less playing, decreased social interaction, and poor appetite.
For more detailed information regarding particular behavioral issues and questions, please refer to our library of specific behavior topics, or call your veterinarian if you are concerned about a sudden serious behavioral change in your cat.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6389351

Caring For Your Senior Cat


Aging in cats can be a very individual process, just as it is in humans, but generally speaking, most cats are considered to be entering the senior years at 8 years of age, and are categorized as being geriatric once they are 10 years old.
Many aspects of caring for your cat change once they enter their geriatric years, including the expense of their veterinary care: this is something to be aware of in advance so that you can be sure to be able to provide the necessary medical care that they may require. Just like in humans, diseases of all kinds become more prevalent with age. Dental disease is a particularly commonly seen issue in older cats, and maintaining your older cat's dental health is both essential, and rather costly.
To begin with, your veterinarian will likely start recommending that annual, or even semi-annual, health screening tests be performed at your cat's regular physical exam times. These diagnostic tests will include blood pressure measurement, blood tests, urine tests, and sometimes survey x-rays as well.
The purpose of these tests is to assess overall organ function and health, and check for many common problems that are seen as cats age. For example, these blood tests generally include thyroid hormone levels, electrolyte levels, a total blood protein value, blood sugar, kidney values, liver enzyme levels, red blood cell and white blood cell counts, platelet counts, hemoglobin levels, etc. The urinalysis is used to help interpret the kidney blood values, and also to detect bladder or kidney infections, liver dysfunction, and diabetes. Blood pressure measurement is very important in older cats, because elevated blood pressure is seen quite frequently with diseases that are commonly seen in aging cats, and like humans, high blood pressure is considered to be a 'silent killer' (despite the fact that it occurs in cats for different reasons than in humans).
Survey x-rays are also invaluable, particularly in obese cats; as cats get older and older, their physical exams become of greater and greater importance, particularly for the detection of masses and diseased organs. However, because obesity in cats greatly limits what can be detected on physical exam, survey x-rays can help provide a better overview of organ shape and size than can be obtained on physical exam.
If your geriatric cat becomes ill with kidney insufficiency, hyperthyroidism, or other diseases, your veterinarian will treat your cat accordingly, and will advise you on what treatments can be done both in the clinic and at home to manage your cat's disease. More frequent examinations and tests may be recommended if your cat has been diagnosed with a health problem.
Even if your elderly cat has received a clean bill of health from the veterinarian, there are still methods with which you can provide your geriatric cat with greater daily comfort and improved quality of life. Some important techniques you can implement at home are discussed below.
Diet
Your geriatric cat should be fed an appropriate diet, and your veterinarian can give you samples for your cat to try, or make recommendations about suitable commercial diets available
Mature cat diets generally have more restricted protein levels in comparison with adult cat diets, and you will want to be cautious not to over-restrict your cat's protein intake since some geriatric diets will do so
Many geriatric cat diets are restricted in phosphorus and sodium levels in case of the presence of kidney insufficiency, hypertension, and/or heart disease
Geriatric diets often have increased fiber levels to help with slowing intestinal motility and encourage healthy daily bowel movements
Geriatric cats should be fed highly palatable canned food to optimize hydration status, particularly because renal insufficiency, which can result in dehydration and constipation, is so common in cats as they age
Access to the essentials
Geriatric cats often become less easily mobile due to decreased muscle tone and the onset of arthritis
It is important that geriatric cats have easy access to food and water dishes, as well as to their litter boxes
Weight loss and dehydration are common in older cats, so having food and water dishes on all floors of the home is important to encourage optimal intake at all times
Having comfortable access to litter boxes is necessary, which also means having access on all floors - geriatric cats that are forced to contend with staircases and longer distances to reach their litter boxes, may or may not end up doing their business in their boxes
Arthritis
Many geriatric do gradually 'slow down' as the years go by, and frequently we are too fast to assume that this is a regular part of the aging process
Well, it is a 'normal' part of the aging process in the sense that older cats are quite prone to developing arthritis, similarly to humans
However, arthritis is an ailment that all too frequently goes untreated in our feline family members, and it is well worth inquiring about pain management and nutrient supplementation for your cat with your cat's veterinarian - while we are unfortunately rather limited in the types of medications available and safe for long term usage in cats, there are some options that may be tried, and it can be amazing the transformation that can take place in your older kitty once it experiences relief from the chronic pain that arthritis imposes on them
Providing your arthritic cat with steps or boxes with which they can more easily access the bed and the couch, rather than needing to struggle to jump up or down onto them, can greatly decrease daily stress levels and also help avoid self-injury from an unsuccessful jump
Litter boxes themselves not only need to be placed in easily accessible locations, but they also need to be amenable to easy entry and exit for the geriatric cat - jumping in and out of litter boxes becomes more challenging as age progresses, and having roomy litter boxes with shallow entrances becomes more and more important
Monitoring Behavior
While your veterinarian will review your cat's behavior with you at its geriatric wellness exam, it is important for you to monitor your cat at home for any behavioral changes and bring your cat in for an appointment if you note any changes
The reason that behavior in older cats is so important, is because it is very commonly associated with underlying medical problems, despite the fact that the changes may seem 'personality'-related
Changes to watch for include differences in activity levels, alterations in sleeping habits, increased or decreased vocalization, increased or decreased appetite, increased thirst, increased socialization with people within the household, or conversely, withdrawal from the people in the house, increased irritability, aggression, and decreases in grooming behavior
Dental Care
Dental disease can easily lead to kidney and heart disease, systemic infections, and significant pain for your geriatric cat, and maintaining your cat's oral health will be one of the most important aspects of prolonging your cat's quantity and quality of life
Older cats with dental disease will not stop eating, contrary to popular belief, because to stop eating means to starve to death
Many owners expect that their cats will let them know, or will show symptoms, if they have dental discomfort, but this is simply not the case - animal instinct dictates survival above all else, and so cats that experience even severe daily dental pain will continue to eat, because doing so means that they will continue to live
While dental care for your cat is quite expensive, as it is for humans as well, it is one of the most important aspects of taking good care of your older cat, and ensuring that it is not suffering - it is an expense to consider before ever adopting a cat, and one that is well worth the investment once you are caring for your elderly cat
While this summary provides some good pointers on caring for your elderly cat, it is not a comprehensive list of all aspects of geriatric health care, and should you have any questions or concerns about the health of your geriatric kitty, it is best to contact your veterinarian to inquire about your concerns.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6386859

How to Give Your Cat Pills


So, you and your cat are back home after a visit to the vet. You have two bottles of medication in your hand and instructions to medicate your cat three times (eek!) per day. You aren't quite sure how your cat will feel about this plan. You anxiously glance at your kitty, now curled up comfortably on the couch. Kitty opens one eye which boldly stares back at you... the look in kitty's eye is unmistakable. It says, "just you try to medicate me, Human. By the time you've made your last futile attempt, YOU will be the one needing a visit with the doctor and some medication." But, don't panic! There are lots of tricks available to help you medicate your cat in an effective, relaxed, and danger-free manner!
Pill Pockets
Pill pockets work best for food motivated kitties. They come in two tasty flavors, salmon and chicken.
Pill pockets are hollow, soft treats into which you place the tablet or capsule and then 'mush' the opening of the pill pocket closed so that the medication does not fall out.
Disadvantages to pill pockets are that cats that are not food motivated are unlikely to voluntarily eat them.
Another disadvantage is that if your cat accidentally bites into the pill pocket and tastes an unpalatable medication inside, they will be unlikely to ever be fooled by pill pockets again! Also, some cats will learn to eat all around the pill, consuming just the pill pocket and leaving the medication behind.
Flavored Chews
For long term medication options, flavored chewable treats are a very pleasant option.
Medicated chews need to be compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and do tend to be more expensive than the regular drug.
Compounding flavored chews works best for medications that are not particularly strong tasting and unpleasant, otherwise cats may still detect the taste of the medication and reject the chew treat (ie. many antibiotics cannot be successfully made into flavored chews).
To figure out what flavor your cat prefers before ordering a large quantity of medicated chews, ask your veterinarian to try non-medicated samples: generally flavored chews come in varieties such as tuna, chicken, liver, shrimp, seafood medley, and beef.
Flavored Liquids
Flavored medications in liquid form also need to be specially compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and are also available in a variety of flavors palatable to cats.
Many people find liquids easier to administer to their cats than pills.
Liquids (non-flavored)
Many medications come in liquid form as well as pill form.
Liquids are not necessarily any more tasty in comparison to their pill counterpart (most are sweetened for human consumption and are banana or cherry flavored - since cats cannot taste sweetness, all that they taste is the flavor of the medication itself), but many owners find liquids easier to administer than pills.
Ask your veterinarian if there is a liquid form of the medication they have prescribed if you are having trouble giving your cat the pill form.
Keeping the liquid in the fridge (unless the medication specifically cannot be kept at such a cool temperature) may help decrease the distastefulness of the medication and make it less unpleasant for your cat to swallow.
Clear Gel Capsules
Many medications have very strong, unpalatable tastes - when these medications are prescribed in tablet form they can be particularly unpleasant, and often chalky, for cats to swallow.
Particularly when a medication is being administered long term, placing tablets into clear, flavorless gel capsules can be an excellent idea - your cat will likely resent the entire procedure much less if it does not involve an unpleasant taste that makes he or she salivate for ten minutes afterwards.
Clear gel capsules can typically be obtained at your veterinarian's office, and if they are not routinely kept in hospital, then they can likely order some in particular for you.
Some tablets may be too large to fit inside the gel capsules, so you may want to purchase a pill splitter at your pharmacy in order to cut up the tablets into halves or quarters that will fit more easily into the gel caps.
The drawback to using gel capsules is that they start to dissolve as soon as they touch moisture - ie. as soon as they are inside your cat's mouth!
So, the key here with gel capsules is to ensure that you have your pilling technique finessed and to always have extra water syringes nearby so that you can flush the capsule down with more water if needed (ie. if the capsules becomes 'stuck' to your cats tongue or roof of the mouth).
Pilling Techniques & Steps:
Step I: Organize Supplies
It is essential to everything you need prepared and ready to gobefore you approach your kitty to administer their medication. Have your pills ready on your right side (or if you are left-handed, have them on your left side). Have your syringes filled with water ready alongside the pills
It is IMPERATIVE that you administer water to your cat to help him or her swallow their medication. It is unfair and unsafe to assume that cats can swallow their medication without the help of water, and this is a topic that is all too often neglected when educating owners on how to medicate their cats. Studies have proven that cats that are forced to 'dry swallow' their medications do not successfully swallow their medications all the way down the length of their esophagus - in fact, after 5 minutes post dry swallow, only 36% of cats had the pills in their stomachs.
The esophagus is a very thin, delicate tissue, and it is not protected from caustic substances by a thick mucus layer as the thick, tough stomach walls are.
This means that when medications dissolve within the esophagus, as they do when cats are forced to dry swallow them, the esophagus is vulnerable to sustaining serious and painful injury from the dissolving medication.
Unfortunately, your cat cannot alert you to the fact that this is happening, and that they are experiencing painful 'heartburn,' but it is the reality of forcing them to swallow medications without water - most cats will simply withdraw after being pilled, and many owners assume that this is a result of the stress of the pilling event, and do not recognize it as an expression of pain.
Step II: Methods of Restraint - "Kitty Burrito" Technique
It is important to know that frequently 'less is more' with cats when it comes to restraint and physical manipulation. The more practice you get at administering medications to your cat, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect. As you become more proficient at this task, the less stressful the event will be for your cat, the less protestation they will make, and as a result it will become even easier to accomplish.
Occasionally owners are anxious about restraining their cats and ensuring that their kitty cannot escape while they are administering their medication(s). One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that does not increase his or her stress level, is by making a 'kitty burrito.' (Ultimately, it is best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it is acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)
To use the 'kitty burrito' technique, follow these steps:
Place a towel on the floor in front of you.
Place your cat on the towel so that they are lying down (upright), facing away from you.
Wrap the towel around your cat just like you would wrap a present or a burrito, leaving your cat's head uncovered, but both forelimbs snugly tucked inside the towel.
Place your feline 'burrito' on the floor between your knees facing away from you. Cats enjoy feeling snug and secure, and wrapping them in a towel will decrease the amount of struggling they will do.
Minimal Restraint Technique
If not using the 'burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is facing away from you, and then approach your cat from behind. This can be done while your cat is on a table, or on the floor, but generally speaking it is easiest when accomplished sitting on the floor with your cat.
Place one hand on your cat's chest so that they do not run away while you are getting organized. The reason you want your cat to be facing away from you is because this way they have nowhere to back into (because they will back into you), and with one hand lightly on their chest, they cannot run away either.
Step III: Opening Your Cat's Mouth
My Favorite Technique
Gently tilt your cat's head upward. Place your left hand (that was previously on your cat's chest) under their chin and apply slow and steady pressure in an upward motion.
When your cat is looking up at you, place your right index fingertip between your cat's lips and you will be able to feel a gap between their upper and lower jaws where there is a space between their teeth. The space is just behind their canine teeth and in front of their premolars. f you poke your finger in this small space, your cat will automatically open up their mo
When your cat opens their mouth for that split second, with your right hand (which has the pill ready), pop the pill as far back into the throat as possible.
Traditional Technique
With your left hand grasp your cat's upper jaw and gently pull their head (and upper jaw) upward.
Your thumb is placed on the right upper jaw while your index and middle finger hold your cat's left jaw.
Your fingers should be just behind your cat's canine teeth when grasping their upper jaw.
With your right hand pick up your cat's pill between your thumb and forefinger, and then placed your middle finger on the front aspect of your cat's lower jaw.
Your middle finger is used to pry your cat's jaws apart by placing it on your cat's lower incisors - cats' incisors are small and dull, so you will not be injured by this maneuver.
Apply gentle but steady pressure on your cat's lower jaw until their mouth is open.
With your cat's mouth open, quickly drop the pill as far back as you can to the base of the tongue.
Note: The traditional technique requires a bit more physical manipulation, which is why I prefer the previous technique ("My Favorite Technique").
"Traditional" and "Favorite" Techniques with Pill Popper
Many people are hesitant when it comes to the "dropping the pill down to the base of the tongue" part of pilling their cats, and understandably so! If you fear for the safety of your fingers, or your kitty is simply a pro at preventing you from placing the pill far enough inside their mouth, then the pill popper may quickly become your favorite new acquisition. The pill popper is a long, thin plastic tube with a rubber tip on one end and a stylet inside of it.
Place the pill inside the rubber tip.
Use either technique to open your cat's mouth, and then gently insert the pill popper into your cat's mouth and push the stylet. The stylet handle is on the opposite end of the pill popper from the rubber tip and, when pushed, it pops the pill out of the rubber tip and into your cat's mouth.
Notes on All Three Techniques
It takes practice to gain the confidence required to pop the pill all the way to the base of the tongue in your cat's mouth! It is normal to feel slightly skittish about sticking your fingers so far in there, but the more you practice, the less frightening it will seem, and you will quickly come to appreciate why the pills must be placed all the way back there; they will not be spat out! So don't worry if pilling your kitty doesn't come naturally at first... both you and your cat will grow accustomed to the routine with time and practice.
Step IV: Water to Swallow the Pill
Now that the pill is successfully (hopefully!) at the back of your cat's mouth, place your left hand back underneath their chin and apply gentle upward pressure. Your cat's jaw must remain parallel to the floor because if your cat gets their head down, they can spit out their pill more easily.
With the lower jaw held gently closed, and their head parallel to the floor or slightly upturned, pill expulsion is less likely to occur.
With your right hand, grasp the filled water syringe, and gently place the tip between your cat's lips. The syringe tip does not actually need to be forced into the oral cavity between your cat's teeth.
Simply depress the plunger gently with the tip of the syringe resting on the lower lip, and your cat will do the rest and swallow it, rather than allow the water to dribble all over their impeccable fur!
Notes on Water Administration
My personal preference is to use 3 ml syringes. Some people prefer the 1 ml syringes rather than the slightly bulkier 3 ml syringes.
The syringe tip which is placed between the lips should always be small and unobtrusive. If the tip is bulky, your cat may resist its presence.
Syringe tip shape, length, and width may vary somewhat depending on the brand and size of the syringe.
One of my favorite tricks is to use teat canulas on the ends of my water syringes! Teat canulas are meant for cow udders. Teat canulas are thin, flexible, elongated plastic tips that can be placed on the ends of the syringes... they are smaller, longer, and softer than the tips of the syringes, so they make great extension tips for giving water or liquid medications orally to cats!
I generally administer the entire syringe-full of water when giving pills, even if my kitty has already swallowed the pill down after the initial depression of the plunger.
It is far better to administer a little more water than necessary than not quite enough!
It's essential that you have enough water-filled syringes present in case you need extra!
Sometimes even the best of pill administrators flub up, so it's handy to be near a water bowl with which you can refill your syringes in case the first pill was expelled and a new pill needs to be given!
You can encourage your cat to swallow the pill by using your right hand to gently stroke your cat's throat - this stimulates the swallowing reflex.
Step V: After the Pilling Procedure has been Completed
After your cat has successfully swallowed the pill(s), give lots of praise, cuddles, and some of their favorite treats, so that they make a positive association with the event.
In time, it is possible that your cat may even come running on cue (or, at the very least, won't run away!) when they hear the medication cupboard being opened, or the pills rattling in the pill vial, because they know that there will be tasty treats coming their way post-medication!
Common Kitty Medicating Mistakes:
Pills
Do NOT mix your cat's medication into their food for several reasons:
Many medications taste unpleasant, and typically the flavor of the medication in your cat's food will simply turn them off of a food that they previously enjoyed.
Putting the pill in food or crushing it and mixing it into food is a very unreliable manner of medicating your cat, unless you are then immediately syringing it as a slurry into your cat's mouth.
If you have other pets in the house, they may end up ingesting the medication and it may not be safe for the other pets in your home.
Liquids
Do not EVER place your cat in dorsal recumbency in order to administer liquid medications - ie. do not cradle your cat like a baby in order to syringe liquid into their mouth! This position makes it difficult for cats to swallow properly, and makes it very easy for them to aspirate the administered liquid into their lungs, instead of swallowing it down their esophagus. I have seen cats suffer from aspiration pneumonia as a result of liquid medications being administered in this manner.
Administer liquid medications the same way you would administer the water post-pill placement. Push the plunger slowly and gently, allowing your cat ample time to swallow the liquid. Keep your left hand (or your right hand if you are left-handed) under their chin in order to keep it closed, and ensure that the jaw is parallel to the floor so that they do not spit or drool out the liquid.
To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com
The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.
catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!
All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit her website and set up a membership - it's fast and free!


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6386508